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.........A really full day of driving took us to our next overnight stop at Bourke. We went to Bourke via Wilcannia, Menindee Lakes, Tilpa and Louth travelling for most of the time on the unsealed Darling River Road. Suddenly the landscape changed and we were in the outback. Cattle grids replaced fences and wandering cows, sheep and goats became a bit of a hazard as they roamed freely. Snakes and lizards crossed our path as did wild emus, kangaroos and the odd bush pig. The vegetation became sparse and the horizon seemed to go on forever - this is what Australia is all about.
The road surface was a real mixture, sometimes it was soft sand, then gravel and corrugations. Once we slipped the Pajero into 4 WD it took the conditions very well with no oversteering at all. Travelling over 100km/h it cruised along happily with no dramas at all, even the metal grids did not pose a problem.
The day wore on and around 3.30pm we arrived at a quirky one room tin hotel at a whistle stop called Louth. Population 6 people, 10 chickens and a couple of dogs. After exchanging a few words with the publican we sat outside sipping a cold 4 xxx. Suddenly the free range chickens got wind of our arrival and clamoured around the Pajero pecking at the wheels and bumper bar. They always knew that visitors brought an unsuspecting feast with them and the hens had a fantastic meal of insects and grasshoppers that we had collected on the journey.
Early evening found us in Bourke and we stayed at an unexpected oasis called the Riverside Motel. This place is part of a NSW travel initiative called Outback Beds. Riverside is one of about 100 accommodation places dotted in remote locations throughout NSW. At Riverside we picked up a large map and brochure outlining all the places you can stay. More info: www.outbackbeds.com.au
Riverside motel is really old and very quirky, set in lush gardens full of roses, cottage plants and Bhudda statues. The lush greenery was a shock for we Victorians labouring under severe water restrictions. There was water in the Darling River and the locals were using it. As the owner of Riverside said "if we didn't use the water it'd just evaporate anyway." When we arrived and walked down the cottage path to our room, other guests were lounging around on outdoor furniture having a drink with the owners John and Sipha Hickson. We slipped into our room which wasn't just a room but a 2 bedroom suite with sitting room and separate bathroom. What set the place apart was the decor, full of antiques and collectibles. It was just like staying in someone's old country home even down to the creaky uneven floors.
Breakfast in the breakfast room was a treat - with antiques everywhere, an abundance of fresh flowers in the room and on the table. We had unfortunately missed the cooked breakfast time but we settled for really fresh fruit salad, toast and tea.
We thoroughly recommend the Riverside Motel as a place to stop in Bourke and do take the time to stroll around the garden and sit outside your room and drink in the peace and tranquillity.
Following our rule, that you can generally get an edible meal at a club we hit the Bourke Bowling Club and their Chinese restaurant. The signs were good, a Chinese proprietor and Asian kitchen staff. Playing it safe we ordered Beef and Black Bean, a combination omelette and steamed rice. What we received were two huge leathery omelettes swimming in beef gravy and a beef and black bean dish that was so tasteless it was really hard to believe. There are no words to quite describe how bad it was!
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